美食图鉴|我们在老太原菜馆吃了啥?(文末有彩蛋)

老太原菜馆

 吃了点啥？

这道菜是检验一家晋菜馆是否地道的试金石。肉片经蛋黄与淀粉上浆，在宽油中迅速滑散，成就了其标志性的“过油”色泽与软嫩口感。点睛之笔在于最后烹入的那股山西老陈醋，激发出浓郁的锅气，醋香扑鼻却吃不出酸，只留醇厚的底味。配着木耳和洋葱一起入口，咸鲜油润，是扎实的晋式家常风味。

This dish is the touchstone to test whether a Jin restaurant is authentic. After being sized by egg yolk and starch, the sliced meat quickly slips in wide oil, which makes it a symbolic "oily" color and soft taste. The finishing touch lies in the last cooked Shanxi mature vinegar, which inspires a strong pot smell. The vinegar smells delicious but can't eat acid, leaving only a mellow bottom taste. With edible fungus and onion, it is salty and oily, and it is a solid Jin-style home-cooked flavor.

刚上桌时，能听到细微的“滋滋”声。丸子外壳炸得酥脆，裹着一层晶亮浓稠的糖醋芡汁。夹起时能拉起细丝，入口先是鲜明的酸甜，紧接着是肉馅的咸香与扎实口感。这道菜讲究热吃，外壳才能保持脆度。

Just on the table, you can hear the subtle "zi zi" sound. The shell of the meatball is fried crispy and wrapped in a layer of sweet and sour sauce. When you pick it up, you can pull up the filaments. The first taste is first bright sweet and sour, followed by the salty flavor and solid taste of the meat stuffing. This dish pays attention to hot eating, so that the shell can keep crisp.

看师傅削面本身就是一种观赏。面团在手中，削刀飞舞，一片片形似柳叶的面片凌空飞入沸水。煮好的面中厚边薄，棱锋分明，入口外滑内筋，软而不粘，有着机器面无法替代的柔韧嚼劲。浇上任意卤子，都能牢牢挂住汤汁，是纯粹的、令人满足的碳水快乐。

Watching the master cut noodles is a kind of appreciation in itself. Dough is in your hands, knives are flying, and pieces of dough shaped like willow leaves fly into boiling water. The cooked noodles are thick in the middle and thin in the edge, with distinct edges and sharp edges, and the inner ribs are slippery outside the entrance, which is soft but not sticky, and has the flexibility and chewiness that machine noodles can't replace. If you pour any sauces, you can firmly hang the soup, which is a pure and satisfying carbohydrate pleasure.

如果说刀削面胜在筋骨，打卤面则赢在那一碗丰盛的“卤”。浓稠的卤汁里通常有木耳、黄花菜、烧肉片、香菇、腐竹等，食材丰富，味道醇厚；淀粉勾芡更让卤汁能充分包裹住每一根面条。

If sliced Noodles wins in "bones and muscles", noodles with gravy will win in that rich bowl of "gravy". Thick gravy usually contains auricularia, day lily, roasted pork slices, mushrooms, yuba, etc., which are rich in ingredients and mellow in taste; and starch thickening lets the gravy fully wrap each noodle.

这是一道更显巧思的面食。将和好的豆面面团放在特制的抿床上，用手掌抿压，一下一下，形似小蝌蚪的面段便纷纷落入锅中。豆面赋予了它独特的、带着粗粮的质朴香气，口感比普通面条更绵软，又带着几分筋韧。

This is a more ingenious pasta. Put the mixed bean flour dough on a special sipping bed, sip it with your palm, and once you look at it, the noodles shaped like tadpoles will fall into the pot one after another. Bean noodles give it a unique and simple aroma with coarse grains, and its taste is softer than ordinary noodles, and it is somewhat tough.