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探馆记(二)大同

  • 2026-03-07 03:18:31
探馆记(二)大同
今年8月去了山西，大同市博物馆、山西博物院都给我留下了很美好的记忆。
我觉得大同在中国是个神奇的存在，它是中国十大古都之一，却并不声名远播；它曾是煤都，煤尘漫天，如今在表里山河的三晋大地上，绿意融融，生机勃勃，美得像如画的江南。
我更喜欢叫它北魏平城。中国县市的古称读起来多好于近现代的名字，像庐州于合肥，润州于镇江，并州于太原。河南的驻马店，人家古时叫汝宁、蔡州。
平城是北魏的首都，有着百年辉煌灿烂的高光时刻。北魏时期是中国第一次农耕民族和游牧民族大融合时期，它承魏晋风骨，开隋唐盛世。
神奇的北魏看大同市博物馆就知道了。整个大同市博物馆看下来，给人的感觉就很北魏。
重要的文物有司马金龙墓漆画屏风、北魏石雕棺床、陶俑阵、华严寺琉璃鸱吻、北魏蓝玻璃瓶、像表情包似的石雕武士像等等，集中展现了北魏、辽、金三代的文化风貌。
司马金龙墓漆画屏风在大同博物馆展出的是复制品，两天后在山西省博物院我们又看到了它，这次是真迹。司马金龙是司马懿弟弟的九世孙，有着东晋和北魏皇族血统，封琅琊王。在这件屏风上，数名相隔千年的传奇女性跨时空相会，上古时期的娥皇、女英，商朝的周太姜、周太任、周太姒，还有汉代的班婕妤都画在这屏风上。漆画色彩艳丽，裙裾飘飘，据说其绘画风格和手法接近东晋顾恺之的《女史箴图》，《女史箴图》的唐代摹本收藏在大英博物馆，去年去大英博物馆时想一睹芳容，并未如愿，博物馆并没有展出来。
司马金龙墓出土的釉陶俑阵也非常震撼，它是国内发现的北魏时期最大的陶俑，与秦始皇的秦兵马俑、楚王陵的汉兵马俑都不尽相同，威武而不失童趣，它们表情生动，有的面带笑容，有的憨态可掬，有着一股和谐欢快的劲儿。看到它们，似乎看到了与后燕对峙的拓跋珪的军队，听到了拓跋嗣南征的马蹄声声，感受到拓跋鲜卑民族血液里流淌着自由不羁的血液。
大同博物馆收藏的两个琉璃鸱吻来自大同华严寺薄伽教藏殿，高2.81米，宽1.3米，龙首鱼尾，遍身鱼鳞纹，是辽代建筑中的精品。在华严寺只能仰头仰望，在博物馆可以近观近瞧，是完全不同的体验。在华严寺我们看到的是大雄宝殿上的金代鸱吻，虽然高达4.5米，但在建筑顶端就只有那么一点点。
北魏的蓝色玻璃瓶反映了通过丝绸之路传入的吹制技术在那个时期已经非常成熟，《魏书》记载“自此，国中琉璃遂贱，人不复珍之”。虽如此，这美丽的“北魏蓝”仍代表了五世纪中国玻璃制造技术的高峰。
还有胡人骆驼俑、石雕武士像，都很有异域特色，特别的可爱。那个武士似乎歪着头正调皮地说：“你瞅啥”？
大同市博物馆馆藏丰富，藏品有17万余件，胡汉交融，雍容大气，值得好好欣赏。
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  1. CONNECT:[ UseTime:0.000628s ] mysql:host=127.0.0.1;port=3306;dbname=h460;charset=utf8mb4
  2. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `fenlei` [ RunTime:0.000846s ]
  3. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 0 [ RunTime:0.000337s ]
  4. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 63 [ RunTime:0.000282s ]
  5. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.000645s ]
  6. SELECT * FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.000240s ]
  7. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `article` [ RunTime:0.000736s ]
  8. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` = 459647 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000447s ]
  9. UPDATE `article` SET `lasttime` = 1773101081 WHERE `id` = 459647 [ RunTime:0.013530s ]
  10. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `id` = 65 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000235s ]
  11. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 459647 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000428s ]
  12. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` > 459647 ORDER BY `id` ASC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000760s ]
  13. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 459647 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10 [ RunTime:0.003638s ]
  14. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 459647 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10,10 [ RunTime:0.009812s ]
  15. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 459647 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 20,10 [ RunTime:0.000741s ]
0.107050s